Royal Tombs, a Peaceful Pagoda, and a Bicycle

Well...the other post was getting long, so I decided to break it up.  Hopefully it will make it easier to read.

We got up early this morning and had secured a driver to take us to some important Royal Tombs, as well as to the Tu Hieu Temple (pagoda).  Our driver was very nice and had a lovely, new and very clean car for us to ride in with lots of air conditioning.  Amy and I both commented as we were sitting in the backseat that being in a car is very deceiving, as we had no idea what the temperature would be once we got out of the car.

Since being in Hue, the temperatures have been in the low 80s, high 70s with lovely breezes that make us feel so comfortable.  Gone are the days of the sweltering heat and humidity of southern Vietnam!!  Thank goodness...we both prefer the cooler north and as a woman we met in the airport on Sunday said to us, "Hanoi is like Alaska!"  Not really, but I guess 60s and 70s feel cold when you are used to 90s and 100s for temperatures.  Amy and I are prepared to enter "Alaska" tomorrow (aka Hanoi), but we suspect it will be lovely in its weather.

So...we arrived at the Tomb of Minh Mang, a Vietnamese Emperor who followed Confucianism and planned his tomb before he died.  It was constructed after his death and is the most well-preserved of all of the royal tombs in this area.  We were the 1st to arrive, which was quite nice as typically there are large tour buses filled with many folks from Germany, Spain, Australia to name a few.

As a side note, we have encountered so many German tourists this year and have never seen so many before here in Vietnam.  Amy discovered that 2010 is German Year in Vietnam, so perhaps this explains the large numbers of German folks traipsing about the country?!?  Who knows...but they are everywhere.

Ok...back to the tomb.  We walked along a gravel path about a 1/4 mile, encountering several chickens + 2 roosters, as well as a few dogs.

Rooster...all puffed-up and ready for a photo

We then paid our 55,000 VND (Vietnamese Dong) entrance fee (which is equivalent to $2.80 USD) and walked through the main archway/gate.  This was what we saw...

Simply breathtaking!

The grounds were filled with all varieties of trees, but mainly pine trees, so this was unique for us to see here in Vietnam.  We then began strolling through the grounds and here's what we saw...

Elephants, horses and sentries 'guard' the burial grounds, as well as guard the Emperor in the afterlife as well.

The main entrance to the burial grounds ~ 3 gates...the middle is always meant for royalty.

The ante-building...we walked toward this building and climbed the stairs and this is what we found...

A stone with Chinese writings...I think it's talking about the afterlife and the Emperor's life on earth.

Views...just lovely

Looking from the ante-building back toward the next building.  The tomb is well-beyond this red building.

More reflecting ponds...with 3 bridges crossing the ponds.  The center bridge was only for use by the Emperor.

Love the architecture and details.

A huge butterfly...we think.  It could be a moth it was so large.

Some buildings were being restored...thought this was a great sign.

The middle gate ~ still no where near the tomb.  More steps to climb and passages to make.

The next step toward the tomb...

The bridge to cross toward the tomb.  Amy and I walked on the outer edge of this bridge...just to be sure.  :)

Steps to the tomb

Steps, up-close...when the Emperor died, he was transported to his final resting place not up these stairs by via an underground tunnel that was then filled-in after he was placed in the tomb.

His tomb is located at the top of this hill.  These doors remain locked all the time, except on the death anniversary date when they are opened just on that 1 day.

This was a beautiful location and a very interesting experience.  We were both so glad to have gone there this morning.

After we returned to our nice driver, we then went to the Tu Hieu Temple (otherwise known as a pagoda).  This is a fully-active Temple with monks all around.  At 10a and 4p, the monks do their chanting and prayers, so we wanted to be sure to be there for the 10a chanting.

We arrived and were blown-away by the beauty of our surroundings.  Very peaceful and tranquil.

The Entrance

Just inside the entrance

So this was about the point where I became quite teary-eyed, thinking of David and wishing I could share this experience with him through these photos and when I got home.  I really missed him at this moment, but felt his presence nonetheless, as I often do, but it was quite overwhelming.  I was incredibly grateful that Amy was by my side, as she always has been, to share this experience with me and to share my tears.  As my dad says about Amy, "She is a good friend!"

We then strolled through the grounds hearing the monks chant from afar and then made our way to the central part of the Temple.  And...at 10a, as expected, 2 of the novice monks (dressed in gray robes) came to the front of the altar, rang the largest singing bowl I have ever seen and began to chant and pray for about 15 minutes.  It was so moving and special!!

Looking away from the Temple...toward the entrance.

The Temple

Bonsai garden

Incense burning...

Amy was able to get the entire prayer session on video, and I tried to upload it 2 times without success.  I will try to upload it tomorrow again and hopefully will post it then.

It was such special part of the trip for me, and I believe, for David too.  So happy that we were able to spend time sitting on the steps of the monastery and being one with the environment.

For me, this best sums up my time at the Temple...

'i know you are there and i am happy'

We then returned to our hotel and went in search of our lunch, which was a Hue specialty called Com Hen and Bun Hen.  Com = rice and Bun = noodles and Hen = chopped up clams.  So we found the street where this native dish is served and chose our establishment and enjoyed both the Com Hen and Bun Hen.  They were both delicious.  We got 1 of each and shared...passing the bowls back and fort.  Along with the rice or noodles and chopped up clams, there were also boiled peanuts, cilantro, star fruit and crispy rice pieces that completed the dish.

Bun Hen (noodles + clams)

Com Hen (rice + clams)

The 'prep' station

One of the best parts of this dining experience were the chairs.  They were...preschool-sized chairs, so that when I was sitting on them, I would have been more comfortable to be on the ground.  Amy was quite cozy in them and at one point said, "My feet are on the ground...I am so comfortable."  Needless to say, I wasn't quite as cozy as she.

Here's the stove...

Ong Lau (pronounced 'Ungalouw')  (metal bucket that surrounds a clay interior and charcoal goes on the inside for heating)

Finally, this afternoon, Amy decided to rent a bicycle and take a little bike tour of Hue.  Hue's traffic craziness is the least we have experienced, so is probably the best place to go biking in all of Vietnam.

I considered doing this, but given my family's penchant for orthopedic injuries this year, I though wiser...I just didn't want to risk it.  But Amy was determined.  So, she rented her 'brand new' bike (she was given a choice between a new bike and an old bike...she wisely chose a new one) for 50,000 VND and was off.

Amy and her bike

And...she's off!

 Here's a few of the things she saw along the way...

Water buffalo ~ mom and baby

A rolling aquarium

And Amy's favorite site...a doggie.

One cute little story to share...last night we were walking back to our hotel from dinner and passed a home where a little boy (probably 6 or 7) was sitting with his dad at a small table.  There were papers on the table and the dad had a pencil and was pointing to some school work.  The little boy was counting (we recognize some numbers) and doing some math problems and was using both of his hands to help him sort out the answers.  If it wouldn't have been totally rude and disruptive, I would have snapped a photo, but instead I will always remember the little boy solving his math problems while counting on his fingers.

So, we've had a great time in Hue...so glad we got to see this city.  Tomorrow morning, early, we are off to Hanoi for the final stretch of our trip!  A couple of things are hard to imagine...(1) it's December 1st tomorrow and (2) our trip is nearly complete!

More to come from Hanoi...

xoxo
Stacy

The Imperial City of Hue

Hey there...greetings from Hue, Vietnam!  (pronounced 'Hway')

Amy and I arrived in Hue on Sunday, November 28th and are leaving tomorrow, December 1st.  Our time here has been really fun and filled with tourist-y activities, which is so nice.

Here's a brief history lesson before I show you the sights...

Hue used to be home to many of the Emperors of Vietnam ~ from the start of Vietnam in the early 10th century (yes...the 1000s) until 1945, when the emperor abdicated the throne and the communist government located in Hanoi took over.  This is why it is considered the Imperial City of Vietnam.

Vietnam was a colony of France from the 1880s until the 1940s (not considered such a good thing, as the French treated the Vietnamese quite terribly) and Hue has been a battleground, of sorts, throughout Vietnam's long history.  The French overtook Hue on a few occasions, as did the Chinese earlier in its history and then Hue became a battleground during the American War (the Vietnam War, in US parlance).  The DMZ (demilitarized zone) was just north of Hue, but Hue was considered to be in South Vietnam, despite its more central location. 

Hue was at the center of the Tet offensive during the American War and was quite destroyed by bombs being dropped by both the VC and the South Vietnamese/Americans, so as a city, it suffered great losses both of people and of architecture related to its Imperial history.

It lies on the banks of the Perfume River (which actually does not have a bad smell...a surprise, but a welcome surprise) and so has the river snaking through it, as well as several canals.

View of the Perfume River from our hotel balcony

 After the American War concluded, the communist government did not pay any attention to the historical sites of Hue, as they condemned the Imperial history of Vietnam as 'relics from a feudal regime.'  So these sites lay in ruins without attention for quite a number of years.

In the past 10-15 years, restoration has been occurring to these historic sites with some things being rebuilt and others kept in their current state, but at least now they have been identified as historic sites which require protection and upkeep.

In the center of Hue, there is a huge Citadel with the highest flagpole in all of Vietnam.

This Citadel sits on the bank of the Perfume River and holds together the giant wall that wraps around the Imperial City complex, which is amazingly expansive.  Amy and I spent about 4 hours walking through the Imperial complex and here are some of the sites.

The 1st wall ~ or 1st line of defense.  There were several layers of walls we encountered.

Amy right before we were passing through this tunnel through the 1st wall, heading into the Imperial city.

Can Thanh Palace

We named these 2 gentleman 'Mo' and 'Curly'.  They were kindly offering us both rides as it was 'too far' to walk around the Citadel.  They persisted in offering us rides for nearly 20 minutes, following us as we walked, and every time we would say we wanted to walk, they would both put their hands across their foreheads (ala Scarlett O'Hara) and say, "It's too hard, too far.'  In truth, the Citadel and Imperial City was maybe a 1/4 mile from where we are standing in this photo.  Not too far...

Kids playing football (soccer) in the foreground of the Citadel

We weren't sure what these markers represented...maybe grave markers???

Old canons...they have been there a while.

There were about 8 various types of guns, tanks, etc. that were on display.  These were American equipment that was seized by the VC when the US left this area and on the placards in front of each weapon it states, "This gun was deployed by the Americans for use by the puppet army..."  The 'Puppet Army' was the South Vietnamese army in this case.

Reflecting pools...there were several of these.

Traffic coming into the Imperial city.  Hue does not have nearly the traffic we are used to in other locales...it's very tame in comparison.

The entrance building for the Mieu Temple...it looks old, right?

The central Moon arch with yellow doors ~ only the Emperor was allowed to enter through these doors.  On each side of this arch are 2 others where the other folks entered.  This 'walled city' was not open to all of the citizens of Hue...just the Emperor and his court, etc.

Looking out the Moon arch...we are now inside the 2nd wall of the Imperial city.

There were 3 horses inside the 2nd wall, grazing on a large grassy area, but tied up.  We weren't sure why there were horses there?  It is unclear.  They look different that horses I have previously seen ~ shorter and with broader shoulders.

These dogs are at the foot of the palace ~ to ward off evil spirits.

An elephant topiary

The ante-building for the palace

One of 2 urns that were hand-cast and are nearly 800 years old.

Me in front of a golden dragon pointing toward the sky...for protection.

Part of the 2nd wall ~ it needs some repair.

Hands-down our favorite building ~ A Reading Room.  It was lovely, peaceful and so ornate in its appointments.

A secret passageway...to another lake.  The stairs going down were a little sketchy/broken, but were still usable.

These ponds were strewn about the Imperial city ~ all with different purposes, apparently.  These are lotus growing on the water.

Some details on the Reading Room...mosaics.

More mosaic details on the reading room entry, from the backside.

The Reading Room's detailed roof is a bit damaged, so these metal posts are holding it up.  You can see where it has cracked near the upper left side of the photo.

A turtle topiary

Lovely views

A staircase that leads to where the palace once stood.  It is no longer there, but you can see the outline of the walls, walkways, etc.  These stairs are a bit wonky, but still usable.

Another 2 gates...one in the foreground and then again in the background.  I like this photo.

More gates throughout the palace grounds

A very old bell

A orange and turquoise dragonfly.  We immediately noticed upon our arrival in Hue thousands of dragonflies flying about.  We do no know if this is the time of year for them or if this always is the case, but they are everywhere. 

Same dragonfly...different angle.

A residence in honor of the Emperor's parents

One of 9 dynastic urns cast from brass.  They are adorned with pictures/scenes from the sky, sea, land, etc.  These were beautiful!

Another gate...

This property was expansive, but so lovely to stroll through and explore.  Like I said, we spent nearly 4 hours walking throughout the whole complex.  Very interesting and such a great exploration of Hue's Imperial history.

Before going to the Imperial City, we walked through the outdoor market here in Hue and then when were were done walking through the Imperial City area we strolled back toward our hotel and here are some sites along the way...

Crossing the Perfume River.  She was carrying a much heavier load that we were.

KFC, anyone?

The market ~ anything and everything you can imagine ever needing!

Dragon fruit ~ imported from the Mekong Delta, as it cannot be grown here in the Central Highlands.

Chickens...all parts included

Carrots and tomatoes...great colors!

Ginger...they had 4-5 different types.

Onions and shallots

Mushrooms...they were so lovely looking.

Traffic crossing the bridge along with us ~ although we had a walking path along the side. 

Dragon boats ~ a big tourist trap...for about $2 US you get trapped aboard a boat for about 2 hours, have to eat at a horrible buffet and then return.  Don't be fooled.  They are relentless too.

At the market again...we think this is tapioca starch.  I imagine this is used as a thickener, but not sure how else it would be used, but there were about 5-6 ladies selling it, so it must be used a lot.

Bananas...on the vine.  The bananas here are different than in the South.  I like the bananas in the South much better. 

Zucchini, I think?

Baby walkers, anyone?  These are always plentiful here...much to my chagrin!

We passed a construction site and this is how they were holding up newly poured flooring.  Fascinating...

We dined last night at a yummy French/Vietnamese restaurant and aside from the little midgies that kept nipping at our ankles, our food was delicious. 

xoxo
Stacy