Saturday, December 4, 2010

I'm Back...Well, Nearly

Good Saturday evening to you all!  I have returned from southeast Asia safely this afternoon and am now in a lovely hotel just south of the San Francisco airport for the night!  I have the alarm set on my cell phone, as well as a hotel wake-up call scheduled for 330a, so I don't miss my 545a flight home to Omaha.  Egads...that's early, but likely I will be awake...my 'clock' is a little messed up right now, needless to say.

Here's the view from my window, taken about 2 hours ago...

San Francisco + Bay
After many attempts, the video clip from the Tu Chien monastery does not want to be uploaded for some reason, so sorry I won't be able to share that with you now.

I cannot conclude this blogging process without saying a word (or 2 or 10) about my travel companion and dear friend, Amy!  She's just such a great friend and I couldn't have done this trip without her and am so happy we had the past month to spend together!  She's been such a support and wonderful friend for the past several years and especially this year, has supported me in so many intangible ways...I cannot say enough about her!

Our final night together in Hanoi
Well, this is officially my final post...it's been such a great month and I cannot believe it's over!  I am ready to resume my life at home, to take some more steps forward, and am looking forward to catching-up with family and friends and getting ready for Christmas and New Year's!

Again, thanks for taking your time to read and follow my travels...I am living a very fortunate life!

xoxo
Stacy









Friday, December 3, 2010

It's About That Time

Well...it's our final night in Hanoi/Vietnam and it's time to go home!  It's been an amazing adventure ~ again ~ and I feel so happy that I was able to experience this trip this year.

I am ready to come home and will look forward to seeing many/all of you very soon.  This blog has been so fun to write and I am so happy that it was recommended to me by Susan and John...and yes, they were correct, it's super-easy to do.  I am very surprised ~ happily, for sure ~ that DSL/wi-fi has come to Vietnam hotels, which has made this process possible.

As is typical for me, right around now, I feel ready to return to my 'normal' life and get back to my home ~ including my own bed ~ and mostly, I am ready for some peace and quiet.  Vietnam is a great country and so fun to travel throughout, but it is loud...all the time!  So...I will be happy to not hear horns, of all types, honking day and night...that's for sure!!

I remember when we returned to Chicago in 2004 from our 1st trip to Vietnam.  David picked Amy and me up at the airport at about 2a and we had dropped her off at home and were driving south on Lake Shore Drive.  I was so amazed at how quiet it was...so, so quiet...and this was downtown Chicago, albeit 2a, but still the quiet was so welcome and wonderful!

Today we walked and walked and walked all over the Old Quarter of Hanoi, which is where we are staying, and finished up our last minute shopping.  It was the nicest day we've had here in Hanoi ~ really the whole trip ~ and what a way to end our trip.  We were both very successful and found lots of great things to bring home for ourselves and others.  :)

As you may or may not know, after our 2007 trip, Amy was inspired and when she returned to Chicago she bought a scooter.  She drives her scooter throughout Chicago from about March to November when she is working and just puttering around the city.  Otherwise, she drives her car.  Well, now in Vietnam, there is a new helmet law, so there are all manner of helmets available ~ many cute and funky, but all very limited in their effectiveness as protection during a crash (if you ask me).  But, in any case, Amy decided to get a helmet, as they are unlike anything she has seen in the US.  (For those of you worried about Amy driving the scooter, please don't worry, as she has the largest, most protective helmet possible that is laden with reflective decals and she also wears a reflective vest when riding at night...so she's got it covered!)

Here's Amy in her new helmet...spiffy, eh???

Amy's ready for a scooter ride!
Here's some other photos from our day today...
No matter how many times I have been here...it still amazes me what can be transported by a scooter ~ in this case...a door and a couple of windows!

No idea what's in this bag, but when this man put it on the back of his scooter, the front tire/front of the bike was lifted off the ground.  After a little shifting of his load, off he went. 

Looks like a large bag is walking down the street, right?  No...it's actually a nearly 80 year old woman carrying this HUGE bag down the street.  The bag is larger than she is!!

Another kitty

A little Hanoi boy...he's dressed for the 'cold' weather.  It was about 70 degrees today!

I thought this tree was cool...love the shape.

A Smart car...so cool!
So now we are off to have dinner with our friends, Tina and Theresa, and we have both completed our packing already.  I am a bit amazed that everything fits and fits easily, so now all I have to do is worry about certain items getting home without breaking.  I have padded everything as best as possible...I hope!  Fingers crossed!

We leave Hanoi tomorrow ~ Saturday ~ at 1230p (which is 1130p on Friday in Omaha/Chicago).  We will fly to Taipei and then leave Taipei at 7p Saturday night.  We will then arrive in San Francisco on Saturday (we lose a day in the travel back) at about 3p (which will seem like 4a to me).  Amy will then immediately travel onward to Chicago, arriving home around 11p or 12a that same day.  I, on the other hand, will stay at the lovely and close-in-proximity to the SF airport, Hilton, until Sunday morning, when I hop on a flight destined for Omaha.  (confused yet...I am!)  I should arrive in Omaha around 1230p on Sunday!!

We are both in some denial that it is currently December and that it will be quite chilly when we return, but I am sure I will survive the transition! 

Not sure when we will return to Vietnam with the International Extremity Project, but know I will return and feel so grateful for these adventures!

Thanks for reading...when I get to San Francisco I am going to try and upload the video from the monastery in Hue for you to see, so check for that in a day or so.  Otherwise, I think this is the final post...it's been fun!!

I appreciate your support and interest and...

it's time to go home.

xoxo
Stacy

Thursday, December 2, 2010

The Kindle

As a few of you know, I purchased a Kindle before my trip this year.  And...I have to rave about its merits during a travel experience!  It's been so fantastic to not have multiple books to lug around and I am slowly getting used to its size, shape, etc.  I am still finding it difficult to read while lying down though.

I don't think this is the end of my buying actual books, but I will rely on the Kindle for all of my travel needs.  Something to consider for those of you who travel a bit.

Here's what I have read so far...

The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo ~ by Stieg Larsson
The Girl who Played with Fire ~ by Stieg Larsson
The Girl who Kicked the Hornet's Nest ~ by Stieg Larsson
This Time Together: Laughter and Reflection ~ by Carol Burnett
The Elephant to Hollywood ~ by Michael Caine
The Confession ~ by John Grisham
The New Yorker ~ November 8, 2010

In process of reading...

The New Yorker ~ November 15, 2010
Have You No Shame?: And Other Regrettable Stories ~ by Rachel Shukert
An American Tragedy ~ by Theodore Dreiser

I have loved everything I have read so far...so would recommend them all!!

xoxo
Stacy

Ha Noi ~ Our Final Destination

Hey there...hope everyone is having a great week!  Greetings from Ha Noi (as it is written in Vietnamese), which is the capitol city of Vietnam and which is located in the northern part of Vietnam.

It is a very cosmopolitan city, full of bustle and busyness, but because it is the seat of government for the country, it is the city in which the governmental presence is most felt.  More guards and 'officials' are seen on the streets and there is a conservativeness of this city when compared to the south of Vietnam.  The infrastructure is much better here in Hanoi, compared to HCMC/Saigon ~ sidewalks are wider, nicer and in better states of repair and there are more traffic lights with walk/don't walk signs than we see in HCMC/Saigon.  There is definitely the feeling that the money in Vietnam is here in Hanoi and is being spent on the up-keep of this part of the country, although Amy and I were discussing whether or not the economy of HCMC/Saigon (very free-market) might be driving the economic engine of this country at this point?.?  Who knows...but an interesting question.

Some of our Vietnamese friends have told us that the infrastructure monies mostly go to northern Vietnam, as the government is still subtly 'punishing' the south for their resistance many years ago.  Not sure myself, but there are noticeably extreme differences from the south to the north.

Hanoi is a very fun place to be ~ less crowded than Saigon and not as large and sprawling.  The people are friendly, but not too friendly ~ a coolness is noted, but that's ok with me.  It's a great city to walk about as well.

We arrived from Hue yesterday morning and got settled into our hotel room at the Zephyr Hotel, at the base of the Hoa Kiem Lake.  This is a very nice hotel and quite an upgrade in price when compared to where we stayed last time we were here in 2007.

When we checked-in, we discovered they had 'upgraded' us to the family suite which had 2 large queen-sized beds.  Seemed like a great deal at the time...not so much later...when we returned from walking around and doing a little shopping (details to come), we discovered little bugs all over the room!  Icky...icky...icky!  So, we got the housekeeping and maintenance staff to come up and take a peek and then requested a new room immediately!!

As they were scrambling to get us another room, Amy and I were literally shaking out our clothes to make sure we didn't take any of the little creatures with us.  We think we are all good, but tomorrow when we are packing for our return, we will certainly be shaking things out again!

We arrived in our new room where they were putting new mattresses on the beds and new linens that were freshly laundered.  Phew!  We did a thorough inspection of the room and no critters were found, so we feel quite ok about our surroundings.

We seem to have a history of 1st night 'issues' here in Hanoi...hopefully next time we'll break our streak!  All is well now...at least we think so!  ;)

On to more fun topics...

When we arrived yesterday we ate at a lovely French bistro/patisserie, as we were both starving.  And we were both badly in need of some good baguette.  The influence of the French in Vietnam's history is most felt in the production of amazing baguettes.  In Hue (as we found in Nha Trang in 2007) this 'skill' does not seem to be passed down, so the baguette is very heavy and dense.  But in the south and in Hanoi, eating baguette is like eating it in France ~ super-delish.  So we found some baguette and it was great.

A little history ~ in 2007, we happened upon a shoppe selling the photography of a Vietnamese photographer and I fell in love with a black and white photograph of a young girl sitting in a chair, holding a grapefruit.  She resides in the very north of Vietnam, amongst the ethnic minority tribes of Vietnam and she is the daughter of a leader of one of these tribes.  So, at the time, David and I were living in Chicago and I knew we didn't have room to put up a really large photograph of this little girl, and so I purchased a small photograph and had it framed and it is now in my house just outside what was David's office in the entryway.

So, Amy and I decided to see if we could find the shoppe again, although I, for some odd reason, couldn't remember the name of the photographer or where the shoppe was located exactly.  We both had a general idea, but that was it.  So we strolled up/down a few streets and as we were walking I started remembering what street it was on, so we walked back to that street.  We were walking a bit and Amy, brilliantly, decided to ask a woman working in one of the galleries if she knew of this photography shoppe.  She did and directed us to it.

We walked in and there is a short wall just as you walk in the sliding front door.  So we both walked around the wall and there was the large photograph of the girl that I have loved ever since 2007.  We found it!!

So, excitingly, I bought not only the large photograph of the girl, but also another large photograph that is more modern in its context and they will be arriving (apparently) at my doorstep in 3-4 days from now!!  So exciting!!  My plan is to get them framed and then hang them in the stairwell leading to the downstairs in the house.  I am just thrilled and am so happy!!

(these are not great photos of the photos, but you get the idea...)
The little girl who will grace my wall

A more modern view of Vietnam ~ love the 2  little boys!
 Adding additional excitement to my purchase is while we were there looking at the photographs, the photographer himself came in and so we chatted a bit and then he had photos taken of me and Amy with him and the photographs I purchased!  Very fun moment!!

These will always remind me of Vietnam and I am so happy to be able to purchase these 2 photos here!!  I couldn't be more thrilled!

We had a quiet dinner last night ~ all of Hanoi is fairly low on tourists at this time of year ~ and then we walked back to our hotel.  As we were walking around the Lake, we heard some music playing and went to check it out.  There was a dance class being held outside on the edge of the lake and there was a great group of people dancing the cha-cha when we were watching.  There were young and old alike dancing and off to the side there were 2 little kiddos (a boy and a girl) doing the moves as well.  Exercise and fitness are readily apparent here in Vietnam, which is grand. 

After a good night of sleep (during which I dreamed of sleeping in my own bed at home...ahhh), we took of to do a walking tour of the markets that Amy found in her Lonely Planet guide.  We walked for about 4 hours ~ had lunch too on our favorite, most French, street in Hanoi ~ and decided to drop off our purchases and take a little nap to recharge our batteries.

Here's some sights we saw while walking and shopping today...

An afternoon nap...on a cyclo!

More sewing machines

Now those are some funky hi-tops

Converse All-Stars, anyone?

More electrical ~ still amazes me!

Flower delivery

A larger flower delivery

Birds in cages ~ they were up and down this entire street

Hand-carved stamps

Amy selecting some stamps with the 'stamp guy'

Wanna knit a scarf?

Tape...and lots of it

Now that's a full bicycle...no wonder she's walking the bike

Donkey Donuts ~ A social responsibility company (?)

DoCo ~ Donuts and Coffee (I like the logo in the center of the sign)

This is 'ghost money,' which is burned in commemoration of the dead to free them from harm and bad spirits

This is a seat for a baby that is put onto the front of a cyclo, so that the baby can sit and ride on the cyclo with their family.  Amy thought it looked like a re-worked shopping cart.

A trike

Getting ready for Christmas here in Hanoi.  There is a large Catholic population here in Vietnam.

The LEGO shop ~ this photo is for Tristan, my nephew...they have LEGO shops here too!!
Tonight we had dinner with Jonah (one of the docs with IEP) and his fiance, Abby.  We had Cha Ca, which is a native dish to the northern part of Vietnam.  It's basically sauteed fish, dill, scallions, cilantro with peanuts and fish sauce over vermicelli.  It's quite good!!  It was fun to hang-out with Jonah and Abby on their last night here in Vietnam. 

We are not going to do any of the historical sites this time in Hanoi, as we did all of them in 2007.  Tomorrow we will finish up a little shopping and start packing for home.  We are planning on having dinner with Theresa and Tina (2 nurses from IEP) here in Hanoi for our final night!!

Finally...for Trevor and all of the other cat lovers...here's another kitty....

Kitty
We leave Hanoi on Saturday around 12p and arrive in San Francisco at 230p on Saturday as well.  I will then return to Omaha on Sunday, the 5th. 

Thanks for reading and I'll post more in the next day or so!!

xoxo
Stacy

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Technology Snafu

Hello, all.  Greetings from Hanoi ~ our final stop of our nearly month-long trip!  We arrived earlier today and are very happy to be here in Hanoi again.

I will post more tomorrow about our goings-on here in Hanoi...so check back.

As I posted yesterday, Amy and I traveled from Hue to a Buddhist Temple and were able to spend some really nice time there.  While we were there, we were able to witness the monks saying their 10a prayers and it was quite beautiful and special.

I had hoped to post a little of the video from our time at the Temple, but for some reason the technology won't work for me right now.  I will try again tomorrow!

More to come from Hanoi...only 2 more full days left until we start traveling home!  Time to get some shopping done!

xoxo
Stacy

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Royal Tombs, a Peaceful Pagoda, and a Bicycle

Well...the other post was getting long, so I decided to break it up.  Hopefully it will make it easier to read.

We got up early this morning and had secured a driver to take us to some important Royal Tombs, as well as to the Tu Hieu Temple (pagoda).  Our driver was very nice and had a lovely, new and very clean car for us to ride in with lots of air conditioning.  Amy and I both commented as we were sitting in the backseat that being in a car is very deceiving, as we had no idea what the temperature would be once we got out of the car.

Since being in Hue, the temperatures have been in the low 80s, high 70s with lovely breezes that make us feel so comfortable.  Gone are the days of the sweltering heat and humidity of southern Vietnam!!  Thank goodness...we both prefer the cooler north and as a woman we met in the airport on Sunday said to us, "Hanoi is like Alaska!"  Not really, but I guess 60s and 70s feel cold when you are used to 90s and 100s for temperatures.  Amy and I are prepared to enter "Alaska" tomorrow (aka Hanoi), but we suspect it will be lovely in its weather.

So...we arrived at the Tomb of Minh Mang, a Vietnamese Emperor who followed Confucianism and planned his tomb before he died.  It was constructed after his death and is the most well-preserved of all of the royal tombs in this area.  We were the 1st to arrive, which was quite nice as typically there are large tour buses filled with many folks from Germany, Spain, Australia to name a few.

As a side note, we have encountered so many German tourists this year and have never seen so many before here in Vietnam.  Amy discovered that 2010 is German Year in Vietnam, so perhaps this explains the large numbers of German folks traipsing about the country?!?  Who knows...but they are everywhere.

Ok...back to the tomb.  We walked along a gravel path about a 1/4 mile, encountering several chickens + 2 roosters, as well as a few dogs.


Rooster...all puffed-up and ready for a photo
We then paid our 55,000 VND (Vietnamese Dong) entrance fee (which is equivalent to $2.80 USD) and walked through the main archway/gate.  This was what we saw...

Simply breathtaking!
The grounds were filled with all varieties of trees, but mainly pine trees, so this was unique for us to see here in Vietnam.  We then began strolling through the grounds and here's what we saw...

Elephants, horses and sentries 'guard' the burial grounds, as well as guard the Emperor in the afterlife as well.

The main entrance to the burial grounds ~ 3 gates...the middle is always meant for royalty.

The ante-building...we walked toward this building and climbed the stairs and this is what we found...

A stone with Chinese writings...I think it's talking about the afterlife and the Emperor's life on earth.

Views...just lovely

Looking from the ante-building back toward the next building.  The tomb is well-beyond this red building.

More reflecting ponds...with 3 bridges crossing the ponds.  The center bridge was only for use by the Emperor.

Love the architecture and details.

A huge butterfly...we think.  It could be a moth it was so large.

Some buildings were being restored...thought this was a great sign.

The middle gate ~ still no where near the tomb.  More steps to climb and passages to make.

The next step toward the tomb...

The bridge to cross toward the tomb.  Amy and I walked on the outer edge of this bridge...just to be sure.  :)

Steps to the tomb

Steps, up-close...when the Emperor died, he was transported to his final resting place not up these stairs by via an underground tunnel that was then filled-in after he was placed in the tomb.

His tomb is located at the top of this hill.  These doors remain locked all the time, except on the death anniversary date when they are opened just on that 1 day.
This was a beautiful location and a very interesting experience.  We were both so glad to have gone there this morning.

After we returned to our nice driver, we then went to the Tu Hieu Temple (otherwise known as a pagoda).  This is a fully-active Temple with monks all around.  At 10a and 4p, the monks do their chanting and prayers, so we wanted to be sure to be there for the 10a chanting.

We arrived and were blown-away by the beauty of our surroundings.  Very peaceful and tranquil.

The Entrance

Just inside the entrance
So this was about the point where I became quite teary-eyed, thinking of David and wishing I could share this experience with him through these photos and when I got home.  I really missed him at this moment, but felt his presence nonetheless, as I often do, but it was quite overwhelming.  I was incredibly grateful that Amy was by my side, as she always has been, to share this experience with me and to share my tears.  As my dad says about Amy, "She is a good friend!"

We then strolled through the grounds hearing the monks chant from afar and then made our way to the central part of the Temple.  And...at 10a, as expected, 2 of the novice monks (dressed in gray robes) came to the front of the altar, rang the largest singing bowl I have ever seen and began to chant and pray for about 15 minutes.  It was so moving and special!!

Looking away from the Temple...toward the entrance.

The Temple

Bonsai garden

Incense burning...
Amy was able to get the entire prayer session on video, and I tried to upload it 2 times without success.  I will try to upload it tomorrow again and hopefully will post it then.

It was such special part of the trip for me, and I believe, for David too.  So happy that we were able to spend time sitting on the steps of the monastery and being one with the environment.

For me, this best sums up my time at the Temple...

'i know you are there and i am happy'

We then returned to our hotel and went in search of our lunch, which was a Hue specialty called Com Hen and Bun Hen.  Com = rice and Bun = noodles and Hen = chopped up clams.  So we found the street where this native dish is served and chose our establishment and enjoyed both the Com Hen and Bun Hen.  They were both delicious.  We got 1 of each and shared...passing the bowls back and fort.  Along with the rice or noodles and chopped up clams, there were also boiled peanuts, cilantro, star fruit and crispy rice pieces that completed the dish.

Bun Hen (noodles + clams)

Com Hen (rice + clams)

The 'prep' station
One of the best parts of this dining experience were the chairs.  They were...preschool-sized chairs, so that when I was sitting on them, I would have been more comfortable to be on the ground.  Amy was quite cozy in them and at one point said, "My feet are on the ground...I am so comfortable."  Needless to say, I wasn't quite as cozy as she.

Here's the stove...

Ong Lau (pronounced 'Ungalouw')  (metal bucket that surrounds a clay interior and charcoal goes on the inside for heating)

Finally, this afternoon, Amy decided to rent a bicycle and take a little bike tour of Hue.  Hue's traffic craziness is the least we have experienced, so is probably the best place to go biking in all of Vietnam.

I considered doing this, but given my family's penchant for orthopedic injuries this year, I though wiser...I just didn't want to risk it.  But Amy was determined.  So, she rented her 'brand new' bike (she was given a choice between a new bike and an old bike...she wisely chose a new one) for 50,000 VND and was off.

Amy and her bike

And...she's off!
 Here's a few of the things she saw along the way...

Water buffalo ~ mom and baby

A rolling aquarium

And Amy's favorite site...a doggie.
One cute little story to share...last night we were walking back to our hotel from dinner and passed a home where a little boy (probably 6 or 7) was sitting with his dad at a small table.  There were papers on the table and the dad had a pencil and was pointing to some school work.  The little boy was counting (we recognize some numbers) and doing some math problems and was using both of his hands to help him sort out the answers.  If it wouldn't have been totally rude and disruptive, I would have snapped a photo, but instead I will always remember the little boy solving his math problems while counting on his fingers.

So, we've had a great time in Hue...so glad we got to see this city.  Tomorrow morning, early, we are off to Hanoi for the final stretch of our trip!  A couple of things are hard to imagine...(1) it's December 1st tomorrow and (2) our trip is nearly complete!

More to come from Hanoi...

xoxo
Stacy